Description

Two dragonflies, fighting over prey, are the decorative subject of this large hairpin. The choice of a motif from nature is typical of Art Nouveau, the movement with which Lucien Gaillard, who made this piece, is identified. Gaillard employed Japanese craftsmen specialised in cutting horn and working in metal and lacquer to make this jewel. In it he used both costly and relatively inexpensive materials. The wings of the insects are of translucent horn, over which tiny emeralds are spread. At the tip of each wing is a greenish transparent enamel Enamel Ceramic, glass and metal objects can be decorated by painting on a layer of 'enamel'. This consists of coloured or transparent glass powder, mixed with metal oxide. To be able to paint with the substance, a binding agent is added. After applying the decoration the whole object is heated, allowing the enamel paint to smelt and form a fine, smooth surface. The result may be either transparent or opaque, depending on the consistency of the enamel paint. During firing the colour of the enamel may change a little, but a practised enameller takes account of this. Enamelling is centuries old - it was a method already in use in ancient Egypt. window surrounded by diamond grindings. The bodies of the insects are made of gold and decorated with blue and green champlevé Champlevé Champlevé is French for 'raised ground'; an apt description of this enamelling technique. The planes of a decorative image are hollowed out of a metal plaqueé leaving outlines of thin ridges. The hollow planes are then filled with enamel, which bulges slightly, curving towards the ridges. These bulges are sometimes polished flat. This technique was popular in the Middle Ages and was often used on bronze objects. enamel. Citrine Gaillard designed large jewels - sculptures in costly materials sometimes described as 'bijoux sculptés'. This hairpin is one of the largest and finest examples of Gaillard's work. Apart from horn, emerald, enamel, gold and diamonds, he also included a citrine. This faceted gem is the prey for which the dragonflies are fighting. The term citrine comes from the citron fruit and reflects the stone's yellow colour.